So uh, yeah. It's obviously not a Subaru, but it's still pretty sweet. So here it is.


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Ok, Heres the car as I got it, and the engine bay...








And finally, the one action shot my brother got....

Cool, its up now. Here is the rest of the build.

Heres some of the car before the gutting. Luckily that didnt take too long, as there wasnt much of an interior to begin with.









And here are the "gutted" pics. And yes, if it's visable... I know I missed that one bracket behind the drivers door. haha. I'll get it!

More pics are definitely on the way, I just need this spam guard to go away

Some quick specs:

Toyota 4ag 1.6l engine DOHC. N/A. Its actually 1628cc with the piston size in it.
Small port head for higher intake velocity
Individual throttle body intake. Custom air plenum eventually.
WEB Cams, 110 Grind. 256 @.050 and about 10.1mm of lift.
Wiesco Forged pistons, 81.5mm and 12:1 static compression.
Stock redtop con rods. These engines were designed to spin to ludicrous speed. Stock con rods are fine.
Toda valve springs. Can we say 9.5 redline? (shouldnt have to go that high. I really hope not... lol)
Yaris 1 piece bucket lifter conversion. The stock setup uses shims on top, and the lobey shaft can flip them off and destroy everything.
Stock crank. See con rod description.
Rebaffled oil pan w/ small port head's oil drain attachment.
Modified stock valve covers to have 2 breather fittings for my catch can
Either a TRD 4-1 or OBX copy 4-1 or custom tri Y exhaust header. I think. The jury is still out on this one.

I think thats it. I'm sure I've missed something.


ViPEC v44 ECM
Direct injection
Direct or wasted spark. Haven't decided yet.


Custom Wilwood Powerlite brake system up front
Subaru WRX rear brakes. (See, I belong here )
Dual master cylinders, tilton
Custom pedal for the DC made with a wilwood balance bar.
Hydraulic hand brake
Inline limiter


Fully stitch welded body shell
Full 10pt roll cage as per NASA rally rules
Custom dead pedal
Custom Co driver foot rest
Custom Steering column support bracket
Turreted rear suspension
Custom Seat pans to get the floor lower
Custom Seat rails to take full advantage of lower floor
Lexan rear quarter windows


JVAB Rally Spec Coil overs for all 4 corners.
Reinforced front control arms
Stitch welded crossmember w/ welds on steering rack brackets
Custom 4 link setup in the rear
1st gen Celica Supra rear axle, 7.5" as opposed to 6.7" Stock LSD for now, Kaaz in future


Stock 5spd T50 tranny
ACT HD 4 puck solid center clutch (Possibly Exedy sprung center 4 puck)
Custom driveshaft


Fuel cell and all aeroquip lines
SARD fuel pressure regulator
Walbro Fuel pump(s)
Some sort of bigger injectors. Maybe 7mge 330cc/min


Custom wiring harnesses and a bit of new switches and toggles for various things
Aux lights


Custom exhaust
Hi flow cat


Aluminum sump guard
HDPE underbody
All sharp edges skiplated
Shock thread protection


That's what I remember so far. I'm sure I'm missing something. Or a few things, haha.

And here are some more pics...

This is the axle after some clean up


Basically, I've just cut off the stock 4 link brackets but left the pan hard and sway bar mounts. I've also been grinding the remains down to the axle level and wire wheeling away the rust. It was only a lot of flakey surface rust, so nothing too bad

Heres the "artistic rally parts shot" haha

This is the usual steering lock/ignition bracket on the steering column. Note the little "Bridge." This is where the lock lug lives. Well, to steal a corolla, erm, I mean, to disable it for legal purposes, you can just cut the bridge, and pop the lug out.

Well, in rally, you cant have the steering lock, and as I'm too lazy to turn a ket to start my car... I've modified that bracket a bit.

Presto Chango we have-o a steering column *spacer* as the turn signal lever bolts to this peice.


As you can see, I no longer have the "bridge" or the turn key section.

Here is the heater box problem..





So there lies the problem. If its possible to move the blower those few inches inward, I would just do that, but I dont know how feasible it would be... I think instead of trying to fab a new hole, or make a duct I would rather just get a smaller, lighter, heater for the defrosting purposes.

Ok, these are the strut tower reinforcements. The plate on the side is for the roll cage tubes that come through the firewall. (Take that Jesse! haha) The other peices are to help with the constant pounding the tops will take.




These are the 30 inch links... There are also some shots of the brackets (I'll get better ones later)

Here is the rear turret. I've only got the right side done so far



And the boxed control arm


Ok, here's what im doing to get my seats lower. As you can obviously tell, I chop giant hole in floor... and insert new floor pan i bent up.



I took my LSD apart, time for a rebuild...



And before anyone asks, No, it will NOT be put back together in that mess of an area.

And a random pic of my stitch welding. This is with my TIG PS on the A piller

Brake stuff came yesterday... and I got around to tigging the brackets to the rear end. Oh, and the cage is more completed. Pics soon, tonight if photobucket doesnt hate me.

OK, here are the pics!

Tig'd on 4 link brackets...



The brakes.


I'll be using those for the front, and stock supra axle brakes for the rear. That gives me slightly less then 50/50 bias (towards the rear) so then I'll just dial in the braking I want with the limiter and balance bar, and be good to go.

I also bought one of these...

Here are some pictures of the cage so far. The door bars, the upper half of the sill bar, the A pillar support bar, and the main X/harness bars are not welded in yet. This is so I have an easier time getting around inside the car to install the seat mounts and covers for the 4 links. Hopefully next sunday the car will be getting its logbook, meaning the cage will be DONE. Finally. Its been long... and hopefully its drawing to an end.






More to come.

Oh, I also ordered a ViPEC ecm from Bob and will be running that

Double OH, Koyo Radiator came too. Well, and I guess technically the master cylinders TRIED to come... but they sent the wrong ones... so, hopefully the RIGHT ones get here soon. then I can start fabbing the pedal mods...

Heres the difference in brake diameters.




Ok, so in order to get more powerful brakes with an increase in heat capacity (thermal mass), I had to get different calipers and rotors. The thermal mass part is easy, a wider disc, or a bigger diameter disc, or both. However, because a larger diameter disc will also effect FR RR bias, I didnt JUST want to get some massive disc. Besides, this being a race car, why should I care how cool it looks? lol. Anyway, another consideration was the wheels I want to run. The rallies here are run on gravel, so clearance around the outside edge of the caliper is important, otherwise you eat the calipers faster. All of this went into deciding a caliper to use, and a rotor diameter.

I choose the powerlite because it would fit well, and a 10.04 rotor because, well, thats the closest rotor I could find that I could make work without having to buy expensive AP 254mm x 20.1mm rotors. Even though thats the size I was aiming for. We found rotors from a camry, I think it was that were 10.04in in diameter, and .86 in thick. The problem was not many rotors that bolt to the back of hubs are small enough, and the ones that slip over the lugs are the wrong bolt pattern (as in this case).

So... I threw it on a bridgeport and bored my own 87mm bolt pattern in it to bolt it to my hubs, and bored out the center hole so it would FIT on the hub.


Insto rotor for 35 bucks.

The rear of the car has the stock supra rear end rotors and calipers. The rotors are a 10in disc as well, but only .38 wide. Plenty, for the rear brakes.

The front calipers are a 4x1.38in piston and the stock supra are a slider with a 1.6875in piston. I dont remember stock sizes... they might be in my other post.

The other cool thing is by using the stock supra rears, they are iron, and the gravel wont eat them as fast. Good for RWD. Also, I can use the stock parking brake and not have to figure out how to make my hydro handbrake lock, haha. (Fun fact, the STI I crew for, its parking brake is a bungee cord from the handle to the steering wheel.... 75k rally car... and its got a bungee cord, haha)


More Cage pics

Oh snap!




Standby for door bar pics. Both continuous bars are in... And soon one of the lower bars. A few gussets are made.

Well, its logbooked!

I just need to make 4 more gussets, then brace the A pillar to the half laterals, the B pillar to the main hoop, and possibly a few other spots.





Here's what I did today, with some help of my friend. I taught him how to use my plasma cutter and let him loose on laying out and cutting these little guys.





There just some 18 gauge (I have lots of gusset material left over, haha) "house" shaped pieces, I clean the edges up and then bend them in the brake. I did have to trim the passenger side one a bit to clear a firewall bump, and a stitch weld. Oh, and on the driver's side you have to be careful to make it so you dont weld over the steering column boot hole.


I still need to make the last few gussets for the roll cage, but plasma cutting the round parts owns me... so... it takes time, haha.

And here are the little braces I made real quick

















How it will connect to the dashbar...





Seat mount "frame" bars IN

Seat mount's figured out (corollas suck for race seats...)

Dash acquired and cut to fit, one bracket fabbed, need a few more

Front Pin mounts done

Rear pin mounts have the hole drilled, and thats it

Dash bar located and welded.

Steering column attachment fabricated. Half attached. Kind of.

A pillar gussets fabricated and installed

Fuel cell cage IN

Trunk floor patched around cell cage

I'm sure im missing something, but there is the gist of things

And a bit more progress...

My Dad has been feverishly working on the brake pedal while I've been working on all sorts of other stuff... He's gotten the balance bar adapter in and welded, and tacked the frame up for me to weld. I'll get some more pics of the assembly when its right prior to paint, and after.

Here is the pedal, ready for paint and finishing, but i was checking clearance for the steering column. Everything was good!



And the reinforcement plate for the firewall, well, at least part of it... I may be running a small tube to the strut tower depending on flex.


Here is the bracket I fabbed for the steering column



Its finally living in it's little home...

I'll get some more pics soon.

Well, got the dead pedal fabbed and installed today.


Dead pedal

Inside... sprayed with weld thru primer to help keep rust down. I forgot to do this to the steering column bracket. Oops

Tig welded top. Kinda tall welds... too much rod

checkin out its home

gotta check the angles out

Its moved in!

Solid foundation

Strong attachment up top

That's pretty much all I did today. I moved a bunch of stuff around so I can finish building the rotissorie to finish the underside of my car. Overkill? probably, but hey, the metal was free.

Here's the idea for the plenum around the throttle bodies... then just imagine a hose, airbox with filter, and then the cold air intake plug into the core support



And this is the brake setup I'm working on. I just need to model the bracket up so I can go machine that out. Yay. /sarcasm







A bit of roll over escape testing...

And a little bit more...

I've been working really hard lately, but on boring stuff like wire wheeling undercoating off and stitch welding. It's really not that exciting, so, I didn't update. The inside was stitched long ago before I caged it, but I waited on the bottom. Now it's done.

Cleaning off the undercoating...





Some stitch welding




I also finished the fuel cell mount's false floor/mud keeper outter parts haha


Welded up the drainage holes in the floor....






Got the front and rear pin mounts finished. Ok, I lied. The rears need to be radiused a bit on the outside, as they are kinda pokey on the top, due to the angle they come out of the sill... and all four need to be hit with a brake hone.

Front

And, yes, I know this is the same pic, but that little round nub poking through is the pin mount's edge. Tied into the cage so its nice and strong.


Rear



Welded the strut reinforcement bars to the wheel well sheetmetal


Dual master cylinder reinforcement plate. It's not totally done yet. I still need the tube that goes from the middle of this to the strut tower to keep this in place!

(it might be sideways... sorry. I thought I fixed it through photobucket... but it doesnt seem to be working)


And thats it for now. The 4 link boxes STILL need to be finished... but soon I'll be painting this thing! And then its wiring and plumbing, and installing and ugh, more work

Got the driver's side rear shock turret ALL the way done I'll get the left done when I get it scribed. I'm tired and hungry, so I took a break.





well, actually, I'll probably weld some sheet metal over the angled sides of the tube. I've just thought of this. lol

Here's the other side done

And some more. I made these little strengthener guys today







Excuse the crappy welds. I should have made them a bit longer, so they were kinda sitting recessed and didn't cooperate occasionally.

More little gusset progress. I made these to help strengthen the Upper A pillar corner





And this is the driver's side 4 link box so far.




I'll get stuff finished when it's done hahaha Then I'll post more pics.

The little inside upper corner gussets on the half lateral



More weight saved! Here are all the pieces that reinforced the rear seat belts/mounts


Here is the entire pile


For those who are curious, the break down is this;

Each E brake rear cable guide was 2.9oz (2)

Each upper rear spring was 5.1oz (2) [one of mine was 4.7, but as you can tell from the pic... it didnt cooperate....]

Each frame rail upper 4 link mount was 5.9oz (2)

And then the seat plates were 17.3oz, 15.5oz, and 21.7oz

Total savings: 5.12 pounds... It's not super impressive but it didnt take that long to do, and anything to offset the cage weight helps

It lived here


And all the big holes on the frame rails are covered with these little thin discs

The 4 link channels





It's obviously not yet done, but its about 3/4 of the way there!


The new panhard rod, heim on one side, stock bush on the other

Oh snap.....



The other box is in.





The driver's side is welded to the bracket and just needs the front top portion finished, the co driver's side needs to be welded to the bracket and the top and the holes punched, but it IS welded to the chassis!

And in other news, the bottom is about 80% sanded, about to be ready for paint. Should be painted by monday, or ON monday, wooo

Got the boxes all welded in and made some little skid plates for the brackets. With the underbody protection over it, They should be nice and protected.



Then I got some POR 15 and brushed it into all the seams before I reseal them, and went ahead and covered the rest of the underside of the car, making sure to cover the external seams and any [wirewheeled] rusted areas well.




The engine bay and interior will be next, painted white. However, I have a bit more work to do in the cabin/engine bay before it will get paint.

(In hind sight, as I painted the bottom white after all, the POR15 was kinda a waste of time... doh)

Ok, I've finally gotten more "picture quality" work done, haha.

In the quest to find masking material, I found a good use for my returned college papers from last quarter (this quarter just started, and I just cleaned my backpack out, lol)



Painted



And here is the sunroof blank welded on. We used the TIG, and just made little tack welds, and worked from the center out. It took a little caressing, as you'll see in the video






http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8YNH7qwFgeg